cotton basting thread
Read page 1-8 of the pattern carefully and print out the test square in the right measurement. Then print out the A4 papers and tape them in the right order as described.
On page 7, the letters do not correspond to the numbers of the pattern pieces so here an overview:
a) Front bodice =1
b) Front cape =2
c) Front sleeve facing =3
d) Back bodice =4
e) Back cape =5
f) Back sleeve facing =6
Choose the right size and place tracing paper over the pattern.
Copy all pattern pieces including the grainline arrows. Cut out the pattern pieces and
pin them as seen in the example on page 8 onto the fabric. Cut short snips for the notches centre front and centre back of the neck in the top and cape pieces.
Tip: Buy a little bit of extra fabric than mentioned in the pattern so you can shift the pattern pieces a bit if needed and add extra seam allowance.
For this pattern it is important that you chose supple, light fabric. This way the cape will drape extra nicely.
This sewing pattern has a variety of cm for the seam allowances:
-side seam bodice and side seam cape: +2cm
-Armholes, neckline and shoulder line: +1.5cm
-Bottom of the cape: +1cm
-Bottom of bodice 4cm
-facing for the armholes (plus iron-on interfacing): inner arch, top and bottom: +1.5cm
Use a chalk pencil to mark the seam allowances onto the fabric.
Cut out the pattern pieces on the chalk marks.
Use cotton basting thread to mark the dart point on the front piece of the bodice (see pictures)
Cut two short snips for the notches in the seam allowance to mark the two dart lines
leading to the dart point.
How to sew
Start to pin the darts of the front bodice piece. Fold along the centre of each dart, with the fabric right sides together, bringing the dart lines directly on top of each other. Stich together a nice straight line from the point of the two notches to the bust point of the dart. Cut the threat and make a double knot at the end of the bust point. Iron the darts upwards and pin them upwards in the side seam allowance.
Pin the shoulder line with right sides together and stich shoulder lines (1.5cm seam allowance) and iron the seams open.
. Finish all seams and the bottom of the bodice off with a serger or a zig-zag stich, Fold bodice hem (4cm) to the inside and attach the hem nicely to the bodice with a flannel stich (see pictures)
Iron the fusible interfacings on the facings, on the wrong side of the fabric.
Finish off the round outer sides of the facings with a serger or zig-zag stich. Pin the facings together at the shoulder seam and side seam and stich together (1.5cm seam allowance)
Turn facing inward and iron carefully. Attach the facing to the bodice with a flannel stich.
Pin the side seams of the front and back piece together right sides of the fabric together. Stich the side seams (2cm seam allowance), iron open and finish off with a serger or zig-zag stich. Trim away 1 cm of the seam allowances on the far end of the hem side, to make the hem less thick when sewing. The cape will be finished off with a fine, pretty rolled hem.
Fold hemline 0.5 cm to the inside. Place the needle of your sewing machine 2-3mm next to the folded line and stich. Trim the excess fabric of the seam allowance away close to the stitching line.
Fold fabric once more to the inside and stich again very close to the folding line. Iron the rolled hem.
Now it is time to attach the cape to the bodice:
Place the bodice (right side facing you) in front of you on the table. Take the cape also with right side facing to you and slide it into the cape (the right side of the cape is now touching the wrong (in) side of the top. Pin both necklines together and stich. Clip short lines in the whole neck line, again be careful not to cut through the stitched line. Try to iron the seam allowance open between the clippings. Then turn the cape outward over the top, iron and attach the cape to the bodice (between the two layers), with a flannel stich by hand.