Today someone asked in a Facebook group a tip for preventing necklines curling outwards. I gave them my stitch-line trick and people were quite happy with it. So I thought it might be a good idea to share it with the rest of the world too :)
The trick is from my '6 months of sewing tips & tricks from a pro' collection, and I love to share it here with you:
The first time I learned about this technique was in my first job as a dressmaker in a bridal shop. It is a very simple couture technique to mold and finishes necklines.
Often a part of a neckline curls in a direction you don't want it to curl. This technique helps to change
the tension of a seam so the part you want to change will curl back in the right direction.
Since then, I use this trick very often on an almost finished garment. The only 2 things you need are a needle and a firm thread in the same color of your garment.
Pic. 3: Use thread and needle and use a running stitch with tiny stitches on the inside of the curling
seam. Make sure the thread is firmly bar-tacked. In this picture, I have used a red thread for clarity.
Here comes the trick: after you have used running stitches for the whole part that you want to mold, you have to pull the thread in order to create tension on it. You do not want small pleads so you have to find the right tension just before pleats appear. The fabric will start to bulge a bit. Now keep this tension by
anchoring the thread. Because of the tension on the thread, the fabric will fall beautifully to the inside of the garment just as you want it.
I have used this technique multiple times from molding v- and boat necks in dresses to heart-shaped necklines and jackets like these. It is a simple technique to finish your garment into perfection!
On pic. 5 & 6 you can see the difference between the necklines with and without the running stitches.
The corner of the neckline in pic. 5 falls nicely on the chest. In pic. 6 you can see the difference even
better. The right corner still pointing outwards, the left corner perfectly molded.
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Thank you for yet more fabulous tips to relocate our work.
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Hi, I'm Maaike Andriessen, Dutch dressmaker who loves to share knowledge/teach. LOVE craftsmenship/bespoke dressmaking and traveling the world in search of beautiful fabric..